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Reprinted by permission of New York Institute
of Photography
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Tips for Better Pictures
Underwater Photography
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Courtesy Sealife Cameras
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If the heat and humidity have got you hot and bothered this summer, why not dip
your big toe into Underwater Photography? You don't need to buy any expensive equipment if you just want to experiment.
If this is your first attempt, you can get started by purchasing any of the waterproof single-use underwater cameras
on the market.
This is a great place to start, especially if you don't plan on going deeper than
12 feet. The latest single-use waterproof models from Kodak come with 800 Max Film, the most versatile of Kodak
films, since it works well in bright sunlight as well as lower light levels.
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If you're ready to invest in a reusable underwater camera, we'll tell you about
a few of the model we like later on.
There's a lot to learn if you get serious about underwater photography. This article
isn't intended to be a thorough introduction to this complicated subject. Particularly if you want to take a camera
along on scuba dives and work at great depths, there's a lot to learn and you'll find that some of the recognized
dive organizations also offer very good photography lessons. In this article, we really want to get those of you
who might be in the pool or surf interested in the possibilities of using a camera as part of your recreational
swimming or skindiving.
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©Chuck DeLaney NYI Dean
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©Chuck DeLaney NYI Dean
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A waterproof single use model is perfect for candid photos of your friends playing
around in the pool. You can use them for interesting results above the water or under it. With a little experimentation,
you can even take a photo that's half above the surface and half submerged, like the photo below.
As you head out to the beach this summer, you should consider leaving your expensive
SLR camera at home, since salt and sand are the natural enemies of the innards of any camera. With a waterproof
model in your hand, you will have the option of chasing your frisky pooch or hyper child into the water without
damaging your camera.
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©Chuck DeLaney NYI Dean
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One slip by the pool and you could see your precious SLR free fall to the deep-end.
Who needs that stress when you're on vacation? So don your snorkel, scuba, or swimming goggles and head to the
nearest body of water, be it your neighborhood swimming pool, beach, or maybe you've got a really big bathtub.
Our underwater photography tips will ensure that you take great photos wherever you are this summer.
Take Care!
Since you are not an amphibian, a few obstacles underwater that wouldn't befuddle
you on land might distract you underwater. Your body will feel like it's moving in slow motion. It's important
to keep an eye out for nasty predators that are around you, be they Man-o-war jellyfish or Boogie boarders. As
much as you want that perfect vacation shot, you do not want to start your summer off on the disabled list. It's
easy to become so fascinated with what's happening in front of your camera that you neglect what's going on behind
your back.
The best time to take underwater photos is between 10am-2pm, because this is when
the sun is directly overhead. At this time you will get optimal sunlight. If you go snorkeling and stay close to
the shore and find the underwater scenery somewhat Spartan, you can ask a friend to come along with you to be an
underwater model. (Someone with good lungs who isn't camera shy!)
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©NYI Student C. Leedham
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One of the most common mistakes land photographers make when they are first exploring
underwater photography is shooting from too far away. Remember that when you're underwater your vision is off.
Looking through a face mask, everything appears about 25% closer than it really is.
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So if you spot a colorful fish, eel or other creature, move in close to make up
for this. The NYI guidelines apply underwater too. Remember: Simplify! Don't be bashful with your finned friends,
get in close, and fill up the frame with your subject to capture a memorable photo. This will reduce the amount
of water you have to shoot through, which will improve your photo especially if the water isn't that clear.
Another thing that can surprise rookie underwater photographers is the loss of color
and light as you plunge down. You lose color very quickly underwater. The reds are the first to go. The further
down you go, the more muted the colors will be till your girlfriend's bikini goes from fire engine red to grayish
blue. If your single-use camera has a built-in flash use it: This will help bring out the bathing suit's real color.
Silhouettes in the water can be very powerful images. Do you want your model to
appear dark against the sun-lit water? Then you should make sure the sun is in front of you, if possible behind
your model. If you want to showcase your subject's wild color and have the background appear dark and foreboding,
then keep the sun behind you.
We interviewed two NYI graduates who are now earning their living as professional
underwater photographers, Ian Lauder and Jim Edds. Recently, Rodale's Scuba Diving Magazine named Ian "Photographer
of the Week." (Check out Ian's photography at his own Web site, www.cyber-sea.com). Ian was on his way to
Maui to photograph wildlife when we caught up with him. We asked him what were some of the mistakes he made when
he first started shooting underwater. Besides giving us the tips about distance and color that we mentioned earlier,
here are some added tips from Ian.
Don't shoot down unless you have a good reason, like wanting to shoot dark subjects
on a white sandy bottom.
Shoot at an upward angle to capture a more dramatic image.
Learn the capabilities of your camera setup.
Be aware of dive gear, kelp, bubbles, etc. floating in front of the lens.
Isolate the subject from the background so it stands out.
Most motion is slower under water, so you should keep this in mind if you are using
SLR, when selecting your shutter speed.
Ian uses Fuji slide film in blue water and Kodachrome slide film ASA 64 or 200 in
green water. Fuji films can make the water look a little bluer, but Kodachrome can give you a more realistic color.
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©NYI Student Jim Edds
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Another NYI graduate who is making a name for himself in underwater photography
is Jim Edds in Florida. His photos of free diving champion and fashion model Mehgan Heaney-Grier, one of which
is show above, have circled the globe. He had a full-page image of Mehgan published in People magazine and the
London Times. He was recently hobnobbing with Club Medders in Sardinia at the Second Free Diving Competition. The
photos he took of the competitors were published in ESPN's magazine.
Most of the time, Jim's film of choice is Fuji 100 film. He uses an aluminum housing
from Aqua Vision Systems. "The trick is to shoot close with a wide angle with an auto-focus camera because
depth of field underwater is very unforgiving," says Jim.
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Have you ever dreamed of free diving in a Florida swamp to look for alligators to
cuddle up with? In this photo Jim took, the brave man named "Manny" appears to be tickling the gator.
Jim tells us that Manny has been interacting with gators since he was a kid and figured out that approaching them
underneath like this was not threatening, but touch the gator on top of the nose and you will get the opposite
reaction.
(Do not try this at home!) This photo appeared in Playboy Germany. Jim used Kodak Royal Gold 400 film for this
shot, as there's not much light in the swamps.
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©NYI Student Jim Edds
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©NYI Student Jeremy Wilcox
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Hint for landlubbers: Maybe you don't even like to swim, and the idea of free diving
in a clear blue ocean or a muddy swamp strikes you a foolhardy. You may be able to use you regular camera and take
some great photos of animals that are underwater while you stand safe and dry on terra firma. How? Many local zoos
now feature glass-sided tanks where you can photograph your subjects underwater, like these two hulking hippos.
Just watch the lighting. Either don't use flash, or if you do, make sure you're not perpendicular to the glass
surface because you'll get a nasty reflection. Shooting through glass works best if your flash is 30-degrees or
more off perpendicular.
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Underwater Cameras
If you feel very comfortable fathoms deep among the fish and you want to go beyond
the single-use cameras, there are a few underwater cameras and accompanying accessories that can add to your underwater
photography experience. For the beginning underwater photographer there are reloadable underwater cameras on the
market that are modestly priced so you won't have to dip into your nest egg.
There are a few things to consider before buying an underwater camera. How much
do you want to spend? How deep are going to go?
The Bonica Snapper Camera can be purchased for around for $129. The Bonica Snapper uses 35mm film and a built in electronic
flash, is sealed with a silicone 0-ring, and can withstand a depth of 150 feet. You can also buy accessories such
as a Neon Strobe Light to enhance picture quality in poor lighting areas. The arm is easily adjustable. You can
attach it to the camera or hold it in your hand. The close-up Kit helps you sharpen the photos you take at 10"
to 24." The Snapper Complete Set comes with the Snapper camera, the close-up lens, the neon flash and strobe,
in a fully padded, rain and sun-proof Twill nylon case costs $499 (suggested retail price). For more information,
check out their website at www.bonicadive.com.
Underwater Housings
Another possibility is to put the camera you own into an underwater housing. What are
housings? You will hear a lot about these glass and metal things in the underwater world. Housings are camera protectors
made of glass and metal that fit snuggly around your regular camera and protect it from the water.
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Ikelite makes a housing that works with Kodak, Fuji, and AquaSnap single-use cameras.
Their latest model, the AquaShot 3e, works with the latest Kodak and Fuji single-use cameras, but not the FunSavers.
The FunSavers work with the AquaShot 2 versions. This really isn't as complicated as it sounds.
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The AquaShot 3
retails for $90. This housing comes with its own reloadable Fuji Endeavor-10 APS camera (retail value $55). Ultra
compact and lightweight, the AquaShot 3e housing features an optical grade glass lens, built-in handgrip with lanyard,
accessory shoe, and a sports finder for easy framing. Operates to 38mm (125'). An AquaShot package complete with
the Fuji camera, housing, Substrobe, Macro Kit, Travel Bag and batteries retails at $340. (In some newsgroups we've
read posts that claim that this can be purchased for less than $200 so, as with everything, it pays to shop around.)
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Courtesy Ikelite
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The Ikelite site (www.ikelite.com) is worth visiting.
The SeaLife Skindiver Camera retails for $99 and has a built in automatic flash and it can withstand 45" depth.
Its close cousin the SeaLife ReefMaster offers the same built-in flash and auto-exposure and a 164" depth
for $189. (See photo)
The Canon Sure Shot A1 has an extra large viewfinder, which comes in handy when you're wearing thick scuba goggles. This
sporty yellow camera costs $250. Something to consider when buying a good quality underwater camera is that these
cameras are also great land cameras. You will be able to use them throughout the year and maybe take a few memorable
shots of a rainstorm. Minolta also makes an APS underwater model, the Vectis
Weathermatic.
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Courtesy Ikelite
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If you become addicted to underwater photography and want to take it to the highest
level, then buying a Nikonos V or older Nikonos model such as Nikonos II and III is a good investment. The high-end
waterproof cameras like the Nikonos series are in the $950 range. That's the suggested retail price, a dealer will
usually knock off a couple hundred dollars off of this. You can probably find a used one for half that price by
searching the Web or visiting your local used camera shop.
Ikelite makes flash gear and accessories that are designed to get optimum performance
out of the Nikonos cameras, so make sure to check their on-line catalog.
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Reprinted with permission from the New York Institute of Photography
website at http://www.nyip.com
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